BTC Update: Interior Completed

We wrapped up the interior today.  Here are a few shots for your enjoyment.  We converted a stock Blue cloth interior to all black with leather GT seats in the Mach1 style.  Shout out to TMI Products for them working with us to pull off a nice interior upgrade.  From TMI we have the Mach1 seats in Leather with all new foam, their new Coupe headliner and their awesome door panels with some of our own custom touches.  Half the interior hard plastic parts are originally in black purhcased from Prestige Mustang and the rest of the original parts were painted to match using some Late Model Restoration interior paint and some PPG Jet Black die.  

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BTC Update: Magnaflow MagnaPak Exhaust

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We got the exhaust hooked up today.  Magnaflow had sent us a prototype Fox MagnaPak system for our project.  Magnaflow has never produced a MagnaPak system for the early FOX Mustangs but let's hope they start.  The BBK X-pipe 3" tubing and ball sockets but we wanted to run tail pipes on our LX so our best bet was to stick with a 2.5" system for clearance reasons.  We had to modify the Magnaflow extension tubes.  We the tubes on the muffler sides because the BBK X-pipe exits are a little longer and exit evenly at the ball sockets compared to a factory style exit which is staggered and shorter.  We then cut off the 2.5" female sockets and welded on a set of Hedman 3" female header reducers to mate up to the BBK X-pipe.  Check out the video for the initial sounds...  we of course will get more video later with take offs and drive by's but for now a nice idle and some revs sure do sound good!  Magnaflow needs to make this system available for sure.  All we lack now is some power steering... some day I'll write a book on that saga.

Exhaust Setup:

2011 Ford Racing 5.0 Coyote Engine
BBK 5.0 Fox Swap Longtube Headers
BBK 5.0 Fox Swap X-pipe w/Cats
Magnaflow MagnaPak Mustang Exhaust (A 15677 w/ 15630 Hangers)
MRT Black Chrome 18" Exhaust Tips 

Built to Cruise Update: ISIS Master Cell Install

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The ISIS Powered Master Cell is in place inside Built to Cruise.  We found a nice spot right above the driver side kick panel and it is accessible without having to remove any interior panels.  All the wiring is done and all accessories are working properly...  brake lights, headlights, turn signals, parking lamps and reverse, ignition and starter.  All is good to go.  Look for a detailed blog at a later date with all our steps installing the ISIS Powered system in the Mustang.

BTC Update: Rear Interior

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The back half of the Coupe/Notch is about wrapped up.  Here you can see a shot of the TMI Mach1 Fox Leather back seat and the dyed 'Black' rear trim panels and the new TMI Coupe headliner.

A note on the rear panels.  Various model years are not the same.  I am not sure of the year of these panels but there is a difference at the rear where it meets the rear deck, some kind of notch cut out for something, does not quite wrap the rear window correctly and then the shoulder belt hole is higher up on these panels and will require drilling a hole to match the B pillar bolt hole.  One day I will try to find some '89 panels and dye them black.  The only reason we switched panels from the ones that came in the car  were because they were blue in color and all chalked up from sun fade... paint/dye was not going to stick.  So be warned, check the year of used panels with the year of your car and make sure they are the same.

BTC Update: Water Temp Sending

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We had to find a place to tap the water sending unit for our Coyote swap.  We are using the Autometer Ford Racing gauges and a sending unit is sent with it.  The new engine is not like your old school intakes and water ports are not readily available.  We checked out the water flow chart for the new 5.0 and found that the passenger side heater hose is hot water before the thermostat so it will suit us fine for a tap sensor.  Autometer has an adaptor to allow use of this 3/4" hose.  It is the Autometer 2281 adaptor.  We were able to tap right above the fuel rail and tilted the adaptor just so, and it clears the engine cover.  A nice clean spot and hidden from view.

On the heater hoses.  This was easier than expected.  Just order you a set of factory 2011 5.0 hoses from a Ford parts source as the engine side connectors are quick connecters and the ends are not nippled for regular hose and clamps.  Then on the passenger side hose you can cut it off at the FOX location and secure it to the heater core input side. The sizes are the same.  Then on the driver side, we cut it off after its factory bend turned the corner behind the intake near the fire wall, then used a 5/8 hose adaptor/conector to connect it to a piece of 5/8 hose with a 90 degree end on it.  We picked this up from a local parts house.  Just ask to look at their hose rack in the back and find a 90 degree piece and measure to make sure it is a 5/8 size then you trim to fit and mount it to the return outlet on the heater core with the 90 degree end on the heater core and turning back to behind the intake.  Easy peasy.  

2011 Heater Hose Part #s
18472A
 18472B

ISIS Powered 'Push to Start'

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As mentioned earlier, we have installed the ISIS Intelligent Multiplex System (www.isispower.com) to manage all the power functions of our 89 Mustang.  We were basically able to remove all of the original factory wire harness...  we did however keep the pigtails and short harness for the front and rear lights, this made wiring them up a little faster.  Many more details to come in how we wired up our FOX but for now check out the cool feature you can use with the ISIS system, which is a true 'push to start' system, no key needed.  Basically the system handles the procedures.  When we depress the start button (hold it down), ISIS turns on the ignition (ACC), a power (positive) connection is made to the Ford Racing Control Pak ignition input wire, then ISIS waits 2 seconds, then it sends power to the starter wire connection on the control pak.  The car then turns over to crank.  Then once the car starts, we release the Start button and the car stays on and running.  To turn the car off, you simply depress the start button again, and ISIS kills the ignition signal to the control pak and it turns off the motor. Who needs keys!?  FYI - The ISIS comes with a key fob, if you depress the 'Lock' button, then all ignition and starter signals are locked and the car cannot be cranked, thus it cannot be hot wired...  sorry! :P